The National Bard. The Ploughman Poet. Scotland’s Favorite Son. The National Poet of Scotland… All names attributed to poet and lyricist Robert Burns. If you’ve never heard of this legend, you’ve likely heard his lyrics, such as the famous “Auld Lang Syne”, traditionally sung at New Year’s Eve parties around the world. The National Poet of Scotland lived between 1759 and 1796. During that time, Burns made an everlasting impact on Scottish literature and culture with over 700 works centered around universal themes to which the common man could relate. To this day, people enjoy his songs and poems because they can identify with his characters and the plights they face.
If you’ve read my other Scotland posts, you know it’s my favorite place I’ve visited. When I studied abroad there, my class visited Alloway, a town located on the western coast of Scotland. Alloway is best known for being the birthplace of Robert Burns and the setting for Burns’ famous tale “Tam o’Shanter”. It is a good option for a day trip out of Glasgow, because it is only 45 minutes away by train. It’s also a great pit stop on the way to the Isle of Arran.
Before we even got off the bus, I could easily see why Alloway served as an inspiration for Burns’ work. It was just so beautifully Scottish. Rolling hills dotted with grazing sheep, quaint homes and businesses, a beautiful bridge that arches high over a river, kirk ruins (that’s Scots for church) surrounded by a beautiful cemetery… I cannot find any fault with this place. It’s picture perfect.
I expected to just do a quick stroll through a museum, and then we would be on our merry way again. Alloway has so much more than just a museum though! The ticket price for the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum includes entrance to 2 sites: An interactive museum with lots of items pertaining to Burns’ life and the cottage where the writer was born and lived for the first seven years of his life. You can purchase tickets at the museum or the cottage. The 2 main attractions are connected by a paved walkway known as the Poet’s Path. Nearby are some stunning sites that were prominently featured in “Tam o’Shanter”.
I highly recommend that you read “Tam o’Shanter” before your visit to Alloway. It’s a wonderful, 10 minute read filled with spooky happenings and humor. Reading the poem will make you have a better appreciation for the historical landmarks of Alloway.
A very brief summary: One night, Tam o’Shanter has way too much to drink. He rides his horse to Alloway kirk where he spies on some witches dancing to a tune played on the bagpipes by the devil. Tam calls out a flirtatious remark to one of the witches which makes her mad. She chases him over the Bridge o’Doon and pulls off his horse’s tail in the process.
Photo courtesty of ArtUK
The order of the places listed below is how I chose to see Alloway. Seeing things in this order allows you to learn about Robert Burns, and then take the same path Tam o’Shanter takes in Burns’ poem. However, you can do them in whatever order you like.
The Museum
The National Trust for Scotland has done an excellent job making the Robert Burns Museum one that is interactive, unique, and modern. The museum is truly immersive, involving all your senses. Watch videos and listen to some of the songs and poems that Burns wrote. Play games, take quizzes, and even get a shadow portrait made. See items of significance such as the author’s portable writing kit, his personal books and manuscripts, and even a lock of the poet’s hair!
The museum has a nice cafe offering Haggis, neeps and tatties, sandwiches, and other yummy food. I particularly enjoyed the local ice cream. If you bring your wee bairns (small children) to the museum, they won’t be bored! The museum has fun activities for all ages, and outside the cafe is a splendid Robert Burns themed play area.
Poet’s Path
After visiting the museum, take the Poet’s Path to the cottage where Robert Burns was born. The path is paved and on flat ground, only taking about 5 minutes to walk from one end to the other. This scenic route to the cottage has sculptures that pay tribute to some of the writer’s best known works. Look closely at the weather vanes along the path that are topped with scenes from “Tam o’Shanter”. Other sculptures include a giant mouse and a large granite haggis.
If you are unable to make the walk, parking is available at the cottage and the museum. On busier days an electric shuttle driven by museum volunteers is available to those who wish to use it.
The Cottage
It’s hard to believe that the cottage where Robert Burns was born is still standing. During the 19th century, it briefly served as a private residence and then as an alehouse, before being restored by the Burns Monument Trust in 1881. Visitors can go inside the three room cottage and see the bed Burns shared with his 3 siblings, the area where livestock was kept, and the kitchen where he received his earliest forms of education. The cottage is decorated with items true to the time period in which Burns lived. The walls have quotes from the poet and uniquely Scottish words with their definitions. Burns’ fans will especially enjoy seeing the birthplace of the cherished author, but strangers to his work will also find it interesting to learn about life in Scotland during the 1700s.
Outside the cottage, a garden is maintained in the same spot where Robert and his father tended their crops. Recently, the National Trust for Scotland realized the exterior of the cottage is in need of repair. If you’re interested in helping out, you can donate to the restoration efforts HERE.
Alloway Auld Kirk
After leaving the Burns Cottage, it’s only a 10 minute walk to Alloway Auld Kirk. The kirk dates back to the 16th century and is where Robert Burns’ parents and sister are buried. Their graves are clearly marked by the entrance of the kirkyard. When the Burns family lived in Alloway, the kirk was already in ruins. However, Robert’s father, William, helped to maintain the grounds of the kirk. Being such a short distance from his home, I imagine Rabbie Burns spent a lot of time here.
The kirk was my favorite stop during my tour of Alloway, because it is the very spot where Tam o’Shanter peered through the window and saw the witches dancing! I GOT TO LOOK THROUGH THE WINDOW JUST LIKE TAM! I was completely overjoyed to get to do this and got teary-eyed from excitement. As I stood, looking in at the ruins of the church, I could easily imagine the witches having a rollicking good time while the devil piped away on his bagpipes. This is one of my favorite travel memories.
Memorial Gardens and Bridge o’Doon
After you’ve finished exploring the kirk ruins, it is just a 3 minute walk to the Burns Memorial Gardens and Bridge o’Doon. These sites are conveniently right next to the Museum, where you parked your car earlier if following this guide. Unfortunately, during my visit the Memorial was under construction. The monument is a 70 ft tall Grecian style temple. If you climb its steps, you will have unobstructed views of Alloway. Even though I was unable to see the memorial up close, I did pass by a little building that housed a statue of Tam o’Shanter. I was quite startled when I leaned in to look at him and “Tam o’Shanter” began playing over speakers!
If you keep walking through the gardens, you will come to the gorgeous Bridge o’Doon. The arched foot bridge dates back to the 15th century. In “Tam o’Shanter”, this is the bridge Tam flees across, eager to escape the witch chasing after him. He does successfully escape, as witches cannot cross water. However, his poor mare loses her tail. Just as Tam was about to reach the top of the bridge, “the witch caught her by the rump, and left poor Maggie scarce a stump.”
Just as the Bridge o’Doon marked the end of Maggie’s tail, it’s also the end of the Robert Burns tour of Alloway. As you head back to your car, you may want to stop by the wee Monument Garden Gift Shop or the gift shop located at the museum. I found some good souvenirs and gifts at the museum shop (including a book of course).
Can’t get enough of Robert Burns? Me either.
Other places in Scotland associated with the National Bard:
Burns House Museum – Just a short drive to the east of Alloway, is the home where Robert Burns lived from 1784-1788. Many consider this time period to be Burns most creative, as it is when he really started garnering success as a poet.
Bachelor’s Club – Between Glasgow and Alloway is the Bachelor’s Club, a thatched roof house from the 1700s that Burns utilized as a meeting place for his all men debate team. He also took dance lessons here as a teen.
The Writer’s Museum and Makar’s Court – This is one of my top things to do in Edinburgh. The museum celebrates Scotland’s 3 most distinguished authors: Robert Louis Stevenon, Walter Scott, and Robert Burns. You can see manuscripts and artifacts from each of the author’s lives. Outside the museum is a courtyard with stepping stones dedicated to influential Scottish writers.
Burns Suppers – Though over 200 years have passed since his death, Robert Burns is still celebrated by many and is required reading for students worldwide. Every year on his birthday, January 25th, people hold giant “Burns Suppers” where bagpipes are played, traditional Scottish food is eaten, and the works of Robert Burns are read aloud for all to enjoy. If you are in Scotland, the suppers are pretty easy to come by. However, even if you live abroad, you may be surprised to find one happening near you! I attended a Burns Supper in the north Georgia mountains a few years ago!
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Amazing trip! The old cemetery is impressive! Thanks for sharing!
Great post! I never even knew this was here! At least I never knew you could visit his house or that there was a museum. I’ll have to make the trip there one day.
This was an inspiring description of a visit to Alloway. It really makes me want to go.
This is an exceptionally interesting blog!! I love the poetry of Robert Burns, and I share his birthday on January 25th.! Alloway is definitely on my bucket list for my next visit to Scotland. With your descriptive writing, you have brought Alloway to life. I also teared up when I read about peering through the window!!