Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and my favorite city I’ve visited. On my first adventure to Scotland, I arrived at Waverley Station in Edinburgh and took the elevator to the street level. The elevator doors opened, and I stepped out to beautiful weather, bagpipes playing in the distance, and an absolutely gorgeous view of Old Town. It was literally breathtaking and the perfect welcome to the city I quickly fell in love with (and I may or may not get teary-eyed every time I think about how perfect that moment was).

Everything about Edinburgh appeals to me; I love the city’s rich history, the literature, the architecture, the food, and the people. When I’m there, I feel like I am thriving. When I’m back home, my heart aches to return. I cannot recommend visiting Edinburgh enough.

If you want to eat delicious food during your trip, check out my post on The Best Places to Eat in Edinburgh!

A (Very) Brief History Lesson

Before I tell you my favorite things to do in Edinburgh, you should learn a little bit about the city’s incredible history. Edinburgh Castle sits atop a hill of volcanic rock left over from a long ago eruption of the dormant volcano known as Arthur’s Seat. The lava flowed down from the hill, creating a path now known as The Royal Mile. Because it gives the perfect vantage point to the surrounding areas, Castle Rock was the ideal place for a Medieval fortress to be built.

The Flodden Wall was built in 1513 to protect residents from English invasion. It forced the growing number of citizens to spread upward rather than outward. Thus the towering buildings along the Royal Mile were built, some reaching 12 stories high. Running off the Royal Mile between these tall dwellings, are numerous narrow passageways called “closes” that were once gated. The gates would be locked at night to prevent criminals from entering into the city walls while people slept.

By the end of the 17th century, the overpopulated city was incredibly filthy. Thousands died from plagues and illnesses that ravaged the crowded town. The close proximity of the buildings resulted in fires spreading quickly and destroying homes. One could hardly walk down the street without treading through sewage being dumped out the windows of the surrounding buildings. The ongoing unsanitary conditions made many want to move elsewhere. Some of the wealthier residents did leave, but the poor did not have the means to escape the treacherous conditions.

To resolve the issue, a decision was made to expand the city, and New Town was born. By the mid 18th century, Edinburgh’s reputation was much improved. Intellectuals flocked to the capital city, leading to revolutionary advancements in all areas of study. Today, Edinburgh is a beautiful, thriving city that attracts millions of people each year. It is widely known for hosting the Fringe Festival every August (the largest festival in the world) and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (a grand spectacle featuring lots of bagpipes, dance, and entertainment with the castle serving as a backdrop).

My post on The Best Places to Stay in Edinburgh lists several options for you to stay that are steeped in history!

Things to Do

Cumulatively, I’ve spent just over 3 months in Edinburgh. In no particular order, here is a list of my favorite things to do and see there:

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. That means at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission from your purchase which will go toward bringing you more travel tips, tricks, and tidbits!

Edinburgh Castle

Perched at the tippity top of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle is a must see. There are numerous sites to experience on the castle grounds, including the Great Room, prison cells, St. Margaret’s Chapel, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the National War Museum. See the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI and the crown jewels of Scotland. You can easily spend half a day exploring the castle and its grounds. Purchase tickets in advance on the castle’s website to save a few pounds. Try to schedule your visit so you can see the firing of the one o’clock gun, which takes place every day, except Sundays. The castle has a limited amount of parking available to those who need easier access, but you should call ahead to reserve a parking space before you visit.

While you are in the Great Hall of the castle, ask a staff member to point out the secret grate used by the king to eavesdrop on his guests. 

When you leave the castle grounds, keep an eye out for the The Witches Well on the castle-side wall of the tartan mill (in memory of the hundreds of people burned at the stake there for witchcraft). On the opposite side of the street is the Canonball House. If you look closely at the wall facing the castle, you can see a canonball lodged about halfway up. 

St. Giles Cathedral

Located midway down the Royal Mile, St. Giles Cathedral is hard to miss with its massive Gothic facade. Entry into the cathedral is free, but donations are welcome. To take photos, there is a small £1 fee (which I suggest paying so you can take pictures of the beautiful stained glass windows that line the walls). Although set in the middle of the busiest part of Old Town, the cathedral offers a welcoming quiet peace. Check the events calendar before your visit so you can attend one of the various performances the cathedral hosts each month.

For £6 per person, take a rooftop guided tour for a unique view of the city.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

When Her Majesty the Queen visits Scotland’s capital city, she stays and carries out her official business at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. You too can visit Scotland’s official residence for the Queen, as well as the stunning 12th century abbey ruins adjoined to the palace where Mary, Queen of Scots married her second husband, Lord Darnley. Holyroodhouse holds a special place in my heart, because my husband and I had a photoshoot in the abbey a few days before our wedding at Dalhousie Castle. The palace is situated at the very bottom of the Royal Mile and is across from Parliament.

There is a small room adjoining the bedchamber of Mary, Queen of Scots. It is said to be haunted, because it is the very spot where Mary’s beloved secretary was brutally assassinated under her husband’s command in 1566. Held at gunpoint and well into her pregnancy with James VI, Mary watched helplessly as her friend was stabbed 56 times. Although the floorboards have since been replaced, visitors claim to see a bloodstain where David Riccio’s body was dragged and eventually thrown down the stairs to be discarded. 

Canongate Kirkyard

While we are on the topic of David Riccio, you should know that you can visit his grave at Canongate Kirkyard. The kirk is situated not far from Holyrood Palace, at the lower end of the Royal Mile. Other people you might have heard of that are buried there include Adam Smith (economist and author of The Wealth of Nations), Agnes Maclehose (fondly referred to as “Clarinda” by Robert Burns), and Robert Fergusson (a Scottish poet whom Robert Burns greatly admired and subsequently paid for Fergusson’s memorial). The cemetery has an unassuming appearance from the street, so it is usually not crowded. Check the Canongate Kirk website to read more about the people buried there and if you are interested in a free guided tour of the kirkyard.

Mary King’s Close

When you visit Mary King’s Close, you are guided in small groups by a very knowledgeable tour guide through the underground 17th century residences that were once inhabited by Edinburgh’s poorest. Living in squalor, the residents of Mary King’s Close were forced to live in extremely cramped quarters. The Black Plague and other diseases spread rampantly throughout the close, killing many of the people (and livestock) that lived there. Hear the tales of what life was like during Edinburgh’s darkest time.

I’ve been three times to Mary King’s Close because it is so well done. While the tales are grim, it is the reality that many of Edinburgh’s residences faced. This is not a ghost tour, so don’t worry if you are someone who is easily spooked. It is surprisingly spacious in the close (I’m a bit claustrophobic and had no troubles). Put this at the top of your list of things to do in Edinburgh!

If you’re ever on the Royal Mile and need a restroom or a break, go down the alley beside Mary King’s Close to find public restrooms and benches by the gift shop.

Explore the Closes

There are dozens of closes branching off of the Royal Mile. Some provide excellent shortcuts to New Town. Others lead to beautiful quiet courtyards. You will see the marked archways labeling each close all along the Royal Mile. Take the time to go down some of them to uncover a few of Edinburgh’s hidden gems. Some of my favorite closes are Riddell’s Close and Court (which has a fascinating history explained on plaques in the close), Advocate’s Close (a shortcut to New Town with spectacular views of Scott Monument), and Dunbar’s Close (which leads to a beautiful, discreet courtyard).

To find out more about the locations of closes and their intriguing history, check out this map.

Writer’s Museum

I LOVE The Writer’s Museum. It celebrates the lives of three of Scotland’s most influential writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. Nestled in a picturesque courtyard called Makar’s Court, the museum contains rare artifacts and personal belongings pertaining to the famed writers. Some of my favorite items in the museum included a wardrobe made by Deacon Brodie (the inspiration for The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde), a rocking horse belonging to Sir Walter Scott that had been modified to accommodate Scott as a childhood disease left him lame for life, and Burns’ writing desk. The only downside to this museum is that because it is situated in a historic building, there is no lift. This might make the museum inaccessible for some as the museum is spread out over three levels.

In Makar’s Court, look for the stepping stones dedicated to Scotland’s renowned writers. Also, there are benches in the courtyard if you need a spot to rest while you’re out exploring.

Arthur’s Seat

Remember that dormant volcano we talked about? YOU CAN CLIMB IT. If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle to experience some nature, you should visit Arthur’s Seat. Jutting out from the rest of Edinburgh’s landscape, Arthur’s Seat is hard to miss. To see it up close and personal though, head toward Holyrood Palace. Arthur’s Seat is in Holyrood Park which is a 640 acre piece of land adjoined to the palace.

Within the park, you can also visit a 15th century medieval kirk, a small loch, and see where ancient forts once stood. You can easily spend a day hiking here. However, if you just want to climb Arthur’s Seat, it will only take a few hours round trip. There is a long or a short hike to reach the summit of Arthur’s Seat. I took the long hike up and the short one back down (it’s one big loop). The views are AMAZING.

Before you start your journey, have a picnic next to The Scottish Parliament. There is a large grassy area with stone seating built into the curvature of the land.

In 1836, 17 miniature coffins were found in a cave at Holyrood Park by a group of boys who were out exploring. It remains a mystery who placed them there or why. Many believe they could be connected to the Burke and Hare murders. You can see some of these coffins on display at the National Museum of Scotland.

National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland is really well done and it’s FREE to get in. It is located across the road from Greyfriars Bobby. The museum is massive covering everything from Scottish History to art and fashion to dinosaurs and the natural world. This is a good option for families as the museum is very interactive (especially in the science and technology portion). My favorite things I saw there were the miniature coffins that were found at Arthur’s Seat, Dolly the sheep (the first successful clone of a mammal), and the exhibit on the Scottish Witch Trials.

For rooftop views, go to the back of the Kingdom of Scots room on the first floor, and take the elevator to the 7th floor. You will step out onto a spacious terrace with panoramic views of Edinburgh and a beautiful shot of the castle. The other elevators in the museum don’t go up that high though, so make sure you get on the right one. Ask one of the many museum faculty members for help if you have trouble finding it.

Greyfriars Kirkyard

Where are my fellow Harry Potter fans? Greyfriars Kirkyard is one of the places J.K. Rowling commonly strolled when she was writing the first Harry Potter book. Several of the names in the series were inspired by names written on the tombstones in the cemetery. Here you will find the graves of Thomas Riddell, William McGonagall, and Alastor Moody. If you aren’t a Potterhead, the cemetery is still a really cool place to stroll through. The tombstones are very Gothic looking, some with dancing skeletons and others with epitaphs etched into the stones in a scrolled font. You can also see a portion of Flodden Wall there. #RavenclawPride

In the 1800s, there was a night watchman who patrolled the streets of Edinburgh every night with his faithful companion, a terrier named Bobby. The pair were inseparable. When the watchman died of tuberculosis, the dog could be seen day and night laying at his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Bobby continued watching over his master’s grave for 14 years, and the townspeople took care of the dog during the time. When the dog died, a grave was placed at the entrance to the cemetery in the dog’s honor. To this day, people still leave sticks at the dog’s graveside. There is also a statue of the faithful dog at the entrance to the cemetery. People say if you rub his nose, it will bring you luck. I just pretended though, because so many people have touched his nose, the paint has rubbed off.

Ceilidh

Pronounced “Kay-lee”, a ceilidh is a social gathering where traditional Scottish music and dancing occur. If you want to live like a local, you should definitely go to one. There is one held at Summerhall every Tuesday evening, hosted by The Edinburgh Ceilidh Club. Tickets are usually around £7 per person. I went expecting to mostly just watch, but I ended up getting out on the dance floor and having a blast. Scottish people are very friendly, and there will definitely be people there eager to help you learn the steps to each dance. They usually do a practice round before each song to help you get the hang of things. Dress up or dress down. Don’t be afraid to ask a stranger to be your dance partner and show you the ropes!

Grassmarket

I was only in Scotland for a few days during my first visit, and I somehow completely missed the Grassmarket area. When I discovered it the second time around, I was stunned by what a huge portion of Edinburgh I had missed out on! The area is populated with lots of pubs. Walk to the very end of the Grassmarket area for a great photo op of the castle. Get ice cream at Mary’s Milk Bar or shop for antiques and vintage clothing. On Saturdays, go to the market that sets up in the large square for food, art, crafts, and antiques. I bought a neat vesta case from the 1800s when I visited the market.

Don’t miss the round monument in the center of Grassmarket that marks where the official place of public execution was for over a century.

Literary Pub Tour

If you want to learn more about Edinburgh’s literary history, go on The Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour! The tour is led by two actors who have an ongoing banter of perspectives making for a fun and entertaining evening. The literary hot spots the tour stops by are near pubs where famed writers are said to have frequented. You will have a chance to go in each of the pubs and order a drink before hearing the history of each location.

Watch A Street Performance

I’m not talking about the floating Yoda or the man cracking a whip telling everyone that he is going to perform a miraculous feat. I’m talking about the musical groups you will catch in the evenings when crowds have thinned out some. I loved the duo pictured above and was fortunate to see them perform a few times during my trip. Two common places to catch talented buskers are by the David Hume statue on the Royal Mile and the open space by the Scottish National Gallery.

Surgeon’s Hall Museum

Fair warning: This museum can be a little gruesome at times. However, as a former EMT and someone drawn to the morbid and macabre, I LOVED the Surgeon’s Hall Museum. When you go, you can sit in a small digitized replica of a surgeon’s amphitheater from the 17th century. You will learn about the infamous body snatchers, Burke and Hare. You will see early anatomical drawings, specimen and curiosities from the 1500s preserved in jars, a nautical themed chest tattoo surgically removed and preserved (complete with nips!), and much, much more. While parts may make you feel a little squeamish, you will leave with a better understanding of Scotland’s enormous contribution to medicine and science. The museum recently underwent a renovation, and the result is outstanding.

Edinburgh Dungeon

At Edinburgh Dungeon, you are guided through Edinburgh’s dark past by actors dressed in period clothing. There are lots of jumpy scares throughout, immersive sets, interesting story lines, a mirror maze, and a ride that takes you up in the air and drops you 30 meters (almost 100 feet)! This is great for groups and those who like haunted houses. Even the restrooms are interactive there. If you only have a couple of days in Edinburgh, I would skip this one, so you can experience the city’s other highlights. However, I am glad that I went, and I had a lot of fun. Buy your tickets online to save money.

See A Show

My favorite venues to see a show in Edinburgh are at Edinburgh Playhouse and King’s Theatre. The Playhouse generally puts on larger scale Broadway style productions, while the King’s Theatre puts on smaller shows. Both are easy to walk to from the city centre. When you’re planning your trip, look online in advance to see what shows will be going on during your visit. Early in the planning process for my last trip to Edinburgh, I found out “Wicked” was showing at Edinburgh Playhouse. I scored 7th row seats at a great price!

Ghost Tour

It’s not much of an exaggeration to say that at any given moment you are likely standing on someone’s grave in Edinburgh. The Plague and other illnesses wiped out thousands that were buried in mass graves. Hundreds of accused witches were burned at the stake. Hundreds more were publicly executed by hanging. Body snatchers were rampant in the city and some turned to murder, so they could make profit off the bodies when they sold them to doctors at the medical college. With so many people meeting violent ends in Edinburgh, there are bound to be a few ghosts lurking about, right? Take a ghost tour to see some of Edinburgh’s haunted sites, and hear the chilling tales of the unfortunate souls who died there. My favorite tour group is Mercat Tours, because they guide you through the lesser known vaults of Edinburgh.

Scott Monument and Princes Street Gardens

Scott Monument, pays homage to Walter Scott, one of Edinburgh’s prolific writers. The towering Gothic structure sits between Old and New Town and is the largest monument in the world dedicated to a writer. Scott not only wrote many poems and novels centered around Scottish culture, but also played an active role in the political climate of Edinburgh. The writer was a key influence in arranging for King George IV’s visit to Scotland. He brought tartans and kilts back into fashion by encouraging their display throughout the city during the king’s visit. He is also credited with penning the first historical novel. His monument sits in front of Princes Street Gardens, a lovely place to take stroll on a sunny afternoon.

For £5, you can climb to the top of Scott Monument via a narrow spiral staircase (cash only).

Across the street from Scot Monument is Waverley Station, named after Scott’s novel Waverley. It is said to be the only rail station in the world named after a fictitious work.

Calton Hill

Calton Hill is a beautiful green space tucked in the heart of the bustling city. The entrance is in New Town near Howie’s, one of my favorite restaurants in Edinburgh. Make the short hike up the paved path (with handrails) and emerge in an open space with panoramic views stretching as far as the sea. Here you will also find an incomplete replica of the Athenian Acropolis, Nelson’s Monument (which is so visible from the sea, captains use it as a reference point when navigating their ships), and a new restaurant called The Lookout. There is a trail that circles Calton Hill which is on level ground and offers unobstructed views of Edinburgh.

For a memorable experience (and good photos), hike up Calton Hill at sunrise or sunset.

There you have it folks! My top 20 favorite things to do in Edinburgh. If you have a favorite spot in Edinburgh that was not listed, let me know in the comments below!

Resources: Brides & Dolls Photography (my awesome wedding photographers)