Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland and Kayla’s favorite city in the world. The Royal Mile is the heart of the city and boasts a fascinating history dating back thousands of years. The historic street stretches from the majestic Edinburgh Castle down to the regal Palace of Holyroodhouse. Lined with cobbled streets, charming closes, and centuries-old architecture, this popular street offers a vivid journey through Edinburgh’s past. In this post, we’re sharing the best places to stop during a self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile.
The Route
This self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile starts at Edinburgh Castle and ends at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. You can of course do the route in the reverse, but the Royal Mile is a gradual slope. Starting at the Castle means the rest of your walk will be downhill. If you go in reverse, you’ll be walking uphill the entire route.
The Royal Mile is dotted with historical sites, shops, and restaurants. Every few steps, there is something fascinating to do or see. You could very easily spend an entire day seeing everything that the strip has to offer. You could also split the Royal Mile in half – seeing everything it has to offer on the upper half in one day and the rest the next.
Something to keep in mind during your walk is that the start and end points of the route have set opening and closing times. Plan the direction of the route based on if you plan on entering Edinburgh Castle or Palace of Holyroodhouse. More details on both of these sites below!
Want to stay on the Royal Mile during your visit to Edinburgh? Check out our list of The Best Places to Stay in Edinburgh for our recommendations!
A (Very) Brief History Lesson
To truly appreciate everything the Royal Mile has to offer, you need to understand a little bit about Edinburgh’s incredible history.
Edinburgh Castle sits atop a hill of volcanic rock left over from a long ago eruption of the dormant volcano known as Arthur’s Seat. The lava flowed down from the hill, creating a path now known as The Royal Mile. Because it gives the perfect vantage point to the surrounding areas, Castle Rock was the ideal place for a Medieval fortress to be built.
The Flodden Wall was built in 1513 to protect residents from English invasion. It forced the growing number of citizens in Edinburgh to spread upward rather than outward. Thus the towering buildings along the Royal Mile were built, some reaching 12 stories high.
Running off the Royal Mile between these tall dwellings, are numerous narrow passageways called “closes” that were once gated. The gates would be locked at night to prevent criminals from entering into the city walls while people slept. Today, the closes make for excellent shortcuts to New Town and have fascinating stories behind each one.
By the end of the 17th century, the overpopulated city was incredibly filthy. Thousands died from plagues and illnesses that ravaged the crowded town. The close proximity of the buildings resulted in fires spreading quickly and destroying homes.
One could hardly walk down the street without treading through sewage being dumped out the windows of the surrounding buildings. The ongoing unsanitary conditions made many want to move elsewhere. Some of the wealthier residents did leave, but the poor did not have the means to escape the treacherous conditions.
To resolve the issue, a decision was made to expand the city, and New Town was born. By the mid 18th century, Edinburgh’s reputation was much improved. Intellectuals flocked to the capital city, leading to revolutionary advancements in all areas of study.
Today, Edinburgh is a beautiful, thriving city that attracts millions of people each year. It is widely known for hosting the Fringe Festival every August (the largest festival in the world) and the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (a grand spectacle featuring lots of bagpipes, dance, and entertainment with the castle serving as a backdrop).
Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Royal Mile
Edinburgh Castle
Perched at the tippity top of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle is a must see. There are numerous sites to experience on the castle grounds, including the Great Room, prison cells, St. Margaret’s Chapel, the Scottish National War Memorial, and the National War Museum.
A highlight inside the castle is the room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to King James VI. Be sure to look up at the ceiling in this room to see her initials painted there. The Great Hall is another room where you’ll want to look up. High up on one of the walls is a secret grate where the king would eavesdrop on the people mingling below. Ask a staff member for help if you have trouble finding it!
You can easily spend a full day exploring the castle, but if you just want to snag a few pics and see the exterior, you can walk right up to the castle entrance for free.
The Witches’ Well
As you leave the paved path of the castle grounds and cross back over to the cobblestone streets of the Royal Mile, look to the left. Against the wall of the Tartan Mill Shop (the wall facing the castle) is a small memorial that commemorates the Scottish people who were burned at the stake for witchcraft between the 15th and 18th centuries. Over 300 women were accused of witchcraft and burned at the stake at this site.
Victoria Street Overlook
Leaving The Witches’ Well, you’ll continue downhill and come to the Lawnmarket area of the Royal Mile next. You’ll see a large Gothic church that now serves as an event space known as The Hub. There is a short narrow street (called Upper Bow) that runs off the Royal Mile in front of The Hub. You can quickly pop down this side street for a fantastic overlook of one of the most iconic streets in Edinburgh – Victoria Street. This street is featured in our post on Harry Potter Sites in Edinburgh, because it served as one of the inspirations for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter Series!
Lady Stairs Close & The Writers’ Museum
On the lefthand side of the Royal Mile, you’ll find Lady Stair’s Close. This opens into a beautiful courtyard with flagstones inscribed with quotes from famous Scottish authors. Here you will also find The Writer’s Museum, which displays personal artifacts, portraits, and manuscripts from 3 of Edinburgh’s most notable writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Even if you aren’t into literary landmarks, it is worth walking down this close for the peace and quiet it offers. Despite being steps away from the busiest street in Scotland, it is incredibly quiet. And there are benches if you need to take a wee rest!
Want a fantastic spot to eat lunch during your self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile? Between Lady Stairs Close and St Giles’ Cathedral is one of our favorite places to eat in Edinburgh – Makars Mash Bar. For more Edinburgh restaurant recommendations, check out our post on The Best Places to Eat in Edinburgh.
St Giles’ Cathedral
St. Giles’ Cathedral is probably the landmark that stands out most on the Royal Mile. It’s hard to miss with its massive Gothic facade. Entry into the cathedral is free, but donations are welcome. There is a small £1 fee to take photos (which we recommend paying so you can take pictures of the beautiful stained glass windows that line the walls).
Although set in the middle of the busiest part of Old Town, the cathedral offers a welcoming quiet peace and is a great place to sit and rest if you need a break from all the walking you’ll likely be doing in Edinburgh. Check the events calendar before your visit so you can attend one of the various performances the cathedral hosts each month.
John Knox’s Grave
While St Giles’ Cathedral is hard to miss, John Knox’s grave is passed by thousands of people every day who have no idea the leader of Scotland’s Reformation is buried so near to where they’re walking.
If you go behind St Giles’ Cathedral, you’ll find a plaque on one of the parking spaces marking the spot where John Knox is buried. That’s right – John Knox is buried beneath a parking space. And sometimes there’s a car parked on top of it.
Afternoon Tea at the Signet Library
If you want to feel royal during your self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile, then a stop at the Signet Library is a must. The Colonnades at The Signet Library is located in one of the buildings directly beside St Giles’ Cathedral on the Royal Mile.
This is an incredibly dreamy place to have afternoon tea, especially if you’re a bookworm. It oozes elegance with its Corinthian columns, mirrored tabletops, and the staff’s meticulous attention to detail. Bookshelves line the perimeter of the room and the entirety of the 2nd level. If you’re lucky, you’ll get to sit in one of the cozy nooks nestled between the shelves!
If you’re a booklover, check out our Books Page for recommendations on what to read next and literary sites around the world.
Heart of Midlothian
Outside of St Giles Cathedral, right on the edge of the Royal Mile, you’ll find the Heart of Midlothian. This historic mosaic is in the shape of a heart and dates back to the Middle Ages. It marks the spot where Edinburgh’s Old Tolbooth once stood.
You may see people spitting on the heart. While it’s considered today to bring good luck if you spit on the heart, the tradition of spitting on the mosaic was originally a small way locals showed disdain for the executions that once took place in the Tolbooth.
Advocates Close
After passing St Giles’ Cathedral, you’ll see a close on the left called Advocates Close. It is worth peeping down the close for an absolutely spectacular view of Scott Monument – a massive Victorian Gothic monument dediated to Sir Walter Scott. The monument sits proudly in Princes Street Gardens is the second largest monument dedicated to an author in the world.
The Real Mary King’s Close
Just pass Advocates Close on the left, is The Real Mary King’s Close. In our opinion, this is the BEST way to learn about Edinburgh’s fascinating history. This attraction is so well done that Kayla has visited multiple times.
When you visit Mary King’s Close, you are guided in small groups by a very knowledgeable tour guide through the underground 17th century residences that were once inhabited by Edinburgh’s poorest residents. The people who once lived on Mary King’s Close were forced to live in extremely cramped quarters, which was the sad reality for the majority of people who lived on the Royal Mile. The Black Plague and other diseases spread rampantly throughout the close, killing many of the people (and livestock) that lived there.
On your tour, you’ll hear the tales of what life was like during Edinburgh’s darkest time. While the tales are mostly grim, it is the reality that many of Edinburgh’s residences faced. This is not a ghost tour, so don’t worry if you are someone who is easily spooked. It is surprisingly spacious in the close!
JK Rowling’s Handprints
Also on the left directly beside Mary Kings Close, you’ll see several stone arches that mark the entrance of the City Chambers. Most people passing by don’t realize that you can go behind the arches. But you can, and you should – especially if you’re a book lover.
The courtyard behind the arches is flagstoned with the handprints of people who have made an outstanding contribution to the city. Each year, one person is selected to win the award, and their bronzed handprints are forever memorialized in a flagstone. Some of the most notable handprints you can see here include JK Rowling, Sir Ian Rankin, and Alexander McCall Smith.
Cockburn Street
After leaving the entrance to the City Chambers, continue on down the Royal Mile a short distance and you’ll come to Cockburn Street (pronounced “Co-Burn”). This windy short street leads down to Waverley Train Station, but is worth a peruse if you have time.
This is Kayla’s favorite street in Edinburgh for a few reasons: It’s beautiful when you walk back up toward the Royal Mile. It has her favorite Italian restaurant in the world – La Locanda. It’s a great street to grab a coffee from with its multiple cafes. It has quirky shops like Pie in the Sky, MYSA, and Cookie, where you can buy souvenirs that aren’t touristy. And it has the loveliest little antique shop, called Cavanagh, that Kayla always finds a treasure in.
Tron Kirk Market
Tron Kirk Market is the best place on the Royal Mile to buy unique souvenirs that are locally made and not touristy. It is located in a massive church (Tron Kirk) that looms opposite of Cockburn Street that has beautiful stained glass windows and a cozy interior.
The market is put on by Scottish Design Exchange, a collective that works to promote Scottish artists and designers. In addition to their beautiful location on the Royal Mile, they also have a location over in New Town.
John Knox House & Scottish Storytelling Centre
It’s easy to spot the John Knox House and Scottish Storytelling Centre because it juts out a bit further than the buildings next to it. It is the oldest, original Medieval building on the Royal Mile. The house was once inhabited by a jeweler to Mary Queen of Scots, and later lived in for a brief period by John Knox. It is said to be the place where he died.
The museum offers a chance to step into history and learn not just about Knox and the Reformation but also get a glimpse of what a Medieval dwelling was like.
Adjoined to the John Knox house is the Scottish Storytelling Centre. The arts centre offers a year-round program of live storytelling, theatre, music, exhibitions, and workshops. Whether you’re able to attend an event or not though, it is worth stopping by to purchase a book from the centre’s bookshop. It offers a wonderful array of Scottish literature for all ages. One of Kayla’s favorite purchases from there is a book for her daughter, titled An Illustrated Treasury of Scottish Folk and Fairy Tales.
When you exit the Scottish Storytelling Centre, continue down the Royal Mile around 20 paces and look back toward the building. At the very top, you should be able to see the Medeival bell that was rung every evening to notify everyone that the city gates would soon be closing for the night (more on this at the next stop on our self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile!).
World’s End
In the 16th century, Edinburgh was a walled city. Over 500,000 people lived between the castle and the gate that once stood at the intersection of the Royal Mile and St. Mary’s Street. Many of the residents lived in poverty and were unable to pay the toll to pass through the gate, so this gate was effectively the end of the world that they were free to explore.
Today, when you wander through the intersection, you can see the outline of where the gate once stood is laid with golden bricks (seen in the above pic). There is also a pub at the intersection called The World’s End Bar, where you can enjoy traditional Scottish foods and live music.
If you fancy a quieter place to eat on the Royal Mile, PIGGS is absolutely fantastic and offers traditional Spanish tapas and sandwiches.
Canongate Kirkyard
While Greyfriar’s Kirkyard is a popular haunt in Edinburgh, less people venture down to Canongate Kirkyard. This beautiful cemetery has a few notable people buried there:
Adam Smith – The Father of Economics and author of The Wealth of Nations
Agnes Maclehose – fondly referred to as “Clarinda” by Robert Burns
Robert Fergusson – Scottish poet whom Robert Burns greatly admired and subsequently paid for Fergusson’s memorial
David Rizzio – In 1566, Mary Queen of Scot’s husband, Lord Darnley, was very jealous of her friendship with her courtier, David Rizzio. Darnley and his men burst into Mary’s bedchamber and brutally assassinated Rizzio. Held at gunpoint and well into her pregnancy with King James VI, Mary watched helplessly as her friend was stabbed over 50 times and dragged down the stairs. There is grave on the outer walls of the kirk that is now illegible, but is said to be the grave of David Rizzio.
Dunbar’s Close
Dunbar’s Close is a hidden gem on the Royal Mile and our favorite close. The entrance looks quite boring, but if you venture down the cobbled walk, you’ll find absolutely beautiful gardens that are designed after the 17th century gardens that would have been present when Edinburgh’s nobility lived in this area.
The close is free to enter and there are several benches dotted throughout the garden to sit and take in the peaceful scenery. After wandering the garden, you’ll feel refreshed and relaxed for the last few stops on this self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile.
Scottish Parliament: The World’s Ugliest Building
The Scottish Parliament building is at the end of the Royal Mile. It is pretty much the only modern building in the area, and it’s hideous. In fact, in 2023, it was named the world’s ugliest building! It’s actually so ugly, we’ve never bothered taking a picture of it so don’t have one to share.
Arthur’s Seat
Remember that dormant volcano we talked about at the beginning of this post? YOU CAN CLIMB IT.
Jutting out from the rest of Edinburgh’s landscape, Arthur’s Seat is hard to miss. It’s easy to spot from the end of the Royal Mile, but it’s worthwhile to take a hike up it if you have several hours to dedicate to it. Arthur’s Seat is technically situated in Holyrood Park, a 640 acre piece of land adjoined to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
Within the park, you can also visit a 15th century medieval kirk, a small loch, and see where ancient forts once stood. There is a long or a short hike to reach the summit of Arthur’s Seat. Kayla took the long hike up and the short one back down (it’s one big loop). The views are AMAZING.
If you just want to admire it from a distance though, there is a large grassy area next to the Scottish Parliament Building. It has stone seating built into the curvature of the land, making it a good spot to stop and have a picnic.
Palace of Holyroodhouse
You’ve finally reached the last stop on our self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile: The Palace of Holyroodhouse. When the Royal Family visits Scotland’s capital city, this is where they stay and carry out official business. It is also a major tourist attraction that holds centuries of history!
You’ll want to buy your tickets in advance and take advantage of the included audioguide. The ticket price includes access to the 12th century abbey ruins, where Mary, Queen of Scots married her second husband, Lord Darnley. This was also the place where Kayla and her husband had a photoshoot before their fairytale wedding in a 13th century castle! One of the most talked about places you get to see on your tour though is the small room adjoined to the bedchamber of Mary Queen of Scots.
Remember the gruesome crime we talked about for Canongate Kirkyard where Mary Queen of Scot’s husband stabbed her courtier / BFF over 50 times? That took place in her bedchamber at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. While the floorboards have since been replaced, visitors claim to still be able to see the bloodstain from the heinous crime.
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